ONI DENIM
【ONI DENIM】595-Kasuri 17oz Kasuri Denim Retro Style Loose Straight Jeans
The latest innovative creation from ONI is “ONI Kasuri” denim (鬼絣) – a rebirth of the “Kihannen” fabric. Kihannen, known for its remarkably rich characteristics that captivated many denim aficionados, was one of the most sought-after denim fabrics produced by ONI. Unfortunately, due to various restrictions, Kihannen is no longer in production. Fortunately, we are lucky to have this newly born “Kasuri” denim, which carries the DNA of Kihannen, allowing this precious legacy to continue.
Kasuri Cloth
Kasuri wall cloth may be used in Kabuki theater as part of scene building and stage decoration. These 2 traditional elements have been drawn for inspiration in ONI’s denim creation. Kasuri (絣) is a traditional Japanese fabric known for its distinctive, blurred-edge patterns created through a resist-dyeing technique. While it's more commonly used for clothing, accessories, and everyday items, the aesthetic and cultural value of kasuri fabric can extend to decorative purposes in traditional arts.
There is a category of denim characterized by pronounced slubbiness, commonly referred to as slubby denim. However, some Japanese denim makers have specialized in and deeply researched the craft of creating slub yarns and slubby denim. They have developed something even more intense and textured, known as ultra-slubby denim. This type of denim is often described as “rainy” denim, with horizontal warp yarns organically cascading down like raindrops. The heavier the denim, the heavier the "rain." Upon closer inspection of “Kasuri” denim, it appears very much alive, with clusters of "rain" scattered throughout, almost mimicking a heavy rainstorm.
| “How did you come up with an unconventional fabric like ‘ONI Kasuri’? I know some fabrics are hard to weave with those vintage shuttle looms.”
- Sven, Store Manager |
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“In fact, while Kasuri is unconventional, it doesn’t employ particularly elaborate methods or specialized yarns. When creating fabric, we start with a design simulation, select appropriate yarns, and determine the density and weave count. However, the true ‘face’ and characteristics of the fabric only become apparent after weaving. “ |
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“As a result, it doesn’t always turn out as planned. On the contrary, there are times when the fabric exceeds expectations or takes on an entirely unexpected expression.” |
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“The result can differ greatly from what was envisioned, or up to 50% of the fabric can go into waste due to fabric defects. Sometimes abandoning the project is the only option, and this is one of the significant risks in fabric production. The process of making a fabric like ONI denim, where it involves constant risk and worry until it’s completed, is indeed risky. This is why very few apparel companies dare to take on such challenges.“ - Oishi-san |
Details
- 17oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim
- Ultra slubby texture
- One-wash for us, hence no shrinkage
- 100% cotton
- Indigo x white
- Mid high rise
- Relax straight leg
- Relax leg opening
- Completely straight-cut legs
- Ultra low-tension weaving, superb comfort and short break-in time
- ONI branded doughnut buttons
- Hidden rivet pockets
- Raised belt loops
- Veg-tanned leather patch
- Made in Japan
The latest production comes in 4 stylish fits.
902-Kasuri ---> High Rise Relax Tapered Jeans
246-Kasuri ---> Mid high Rise Slim Straight
288-Kasuri ---> High Rise Regular Straight
595-Kasuri ---> Retro Style Loose Straight
*This fabric is 2 sizes smaller compare to most ONI or other Japanese jeans.
**Taking 2 sizes up is recommended.
Please refer to size chart for more detail.
Size Chart (One-washed)
| cm | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 36 | 38 | 40 |
| Flat Waist | ----- | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 43 | 45 | 47 |
| Front Rise | ----- | 28 | 28.5 | 29 | 29 | 29.5 | 30 | 30.5 | 31 |
| Thigh | ----- | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37.5 |
| Inseam | ----- | 85 | 85 | 85 | 85 | 85 | 85 | 85 | 85 |
| Hem | ----- | 21 | 22 | 23 | 23 | 23.5 | 24 | 25 | 25.5 |
Hemming will take 3~4 working days.
Once an item is been hemmed, it will not be eligible for return or refund.
For the length on sanforized raw denim, it is recommend to add 2-3cm in length considering the shrinkage after first wash.
For unsanforized denim, we normally would offer them in rinsed condition, hence there is no need to consider shrinkage.